Guest Blogger Jennifer Barclay, is a resident of Tilos and the author of Falling in Honey, the story of how Tilos stole her heart. Who better to share some itinerary inspiration with us.
In Jen’s last article she shared her insights into the Magic of Tilos which included tips on how to reach this Greek Island. Today she shares what to do and see when you arrive on Tilos.
Megalo Horio
Don’t miss a trip to Megalo Horio, the oldest settlement clinging picturesquely to a hillside. The tiny museum houses the bones of the last elephants in Europe; it’s also worth seeing the church and wandering the tiny alleyways, noting old walls and doorways dating back through the centuries.
A half-hour, near-vertical walk will take the adventurous to the ruined Crusaders’ castle with ancient stones from a former classical temple.
Refreshments back in the village are available at the kafeneion or one of two tavernas, the delightful and great-value Kali Kardia, and To Kastro where most of the food comes from their own farm.
Eristos Beach
The beach at Eristos, a half-hour’s easy walk from Megalo Horio through a fertile valley, also has good, hearty food at its tavernas; at the relaxed Eristos Beach Hotel with its flower-filled gardens, try fried whitebait or stuffed vine leaves.
The kilometre-long, mostly sandy beach has an alternative vibe in mid-summer, when Greeks from Athens free-camp under the trees. Clothing is optional at the far end of the beach, and at night, campfires are lit under the stars.
Agios Antonios
Less than an hour’s walk from Ayios Andonis (also spelled Agios Antonios) on the road to the monastery is the smaller Plaka beach; often sheltered when other beaches are windy, its only permanent residents are the peacocks, which jump over the fence for a stroll on the sand – especially if you have food.
Return to the small harbour at Ayios Andonis for the best sunset on the island from the taverna Delfini which specialises in fish, or from nearby Elpida.
If you’re lucky you might see the island’s resident eagles and falcons and shags, endangered species that have been protected since Tilos became a conservation area. Dolphins, monk seals and turtles are seen regularly from boats. It’s the wild, natural beauty, the walking and swimming as well as the hospitable people, that make Tilos a magical island that people return to year after year.
Jennifer Barclay, a resident of Tilos, is the author of Falling in Honey, the story of how a tiny Greek island stole her heart (now published in several countries).
She writes a blog about Tilos Greek island life at Octopus in my Ouzo.